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Getting Satisfying Results
(excellent images)
with the Zeiss Camera Eyepiece
DC4.
Stephen Ingraham
Birding and Naturalist Product Specialist
Carl Zeiss Sports Optics.
The Camera Eyepiece DC4 is first instrument that allows true
observation and image capture through the same eyepiece. It makes what was a
very difficult and cumbersome process with convention digiscope equipment into
a relatively easy and highly satisfying experience in the field. The automatic,
center weighted exposure metering and the sophisticated DXO image processing
software built right into the camera handles difficult lighting situations
(backlight, high contrast, etc.) and difficult subjects (white plumage, black
feathers or fur, etc.) with only minor attention…rarely requiring any intervention
for an acceptable exposure. The wireless remote allows image capture without
taking your eye away from the eyepiece or your hands off the focus…or, when you
can step back, vibration free shutter release. With no moving mirror (like the
ones in DSLRs), there is no added vibration caused by the camera. The wide
field, true 40 power eyepiece provides wonderful observation, and the reach you
need for frame-filling images. And, again, the DXO Image Science processing
delivers the same rich color and detail in the image that you see in the
eyepiece.
In many ways the Camera Eyepiece DC4 mounted on the ZEISS
Diascope is the ideal long-range image capture system, capable of results that
will amaze and delight you. However, it is a form of long-lens photography, and
long lens photography has its own set of issues which will require your patience and some practice to overcome.
In long-lens photography of any kind, including image
capture with the Camera Eyepiece DC4 and the Diascope, motion is your enemy.
The slightest camera and scope motion…whether it is induced by wind, passing
vehicles (even hundreds of yards away), people walking, you touching the scope,
whatever…will degrade the image. Subject motion is just as bad. At the
magnifications involved there are times when it is simply impossible to get a
satisfactory image of an actively feeding or preening bird or game animal.
You need to adjust your expectations, your methods, and your
attitude.
First, your
expectations:
Ten satisfactory images out of
every 100 exposures is GOOD!
If you expect the first and only image of a bird or animal
to be satisfactory, then you are doomed to disappointment. Long-lens
photographers take a lot of images of each subject, and sort out the good ones
at home. They expect 90 of every 100 exposures to be unsatisfactory…most are
satisfied if 1 in 100 images is a real “keeper”. With the DC4 you should expect
to average, as your skills improve, at least 10 satisfactory images from each
100 exposures.
Do the math. That means if you really want an image of a
bird or animal you need to take at least 10 exposures (and 25 is safer). Begin taking images when you first focus on
the subject. Continue to take images until the subject moves out of range.
After the first few shots, you can sit back and wait for interesting behavior,
but, even then, don’t be satisfied with one shot a particular behavior. Take
several. Take 10. Expect most to be
unsatisfactory. Hope for more (which is where the attitude comes in)…but don’t
count on it!
Over time, if you keep at it (there is the attitude thing
again), you will bring back a satisfying number of satisfying images. The DC4
makes it easier than with almost any other image capture system you could
use…but begin with realistic expectations.
As far as methods go:
Follow these guidelines.
Use
the heaviest, steadiest, most stable tripod you are willing to carry.
(heavy aluminum, solid carbon fiber, wood…in that order, with wood being
the most stable…and don’t neglect the head…the best, most stable fluid
head you can afford.)
- When
possible, take your hands off the scope a full second before capturing the
image (not always possible when focusing on moving subjects…therefore take
many more exposures of moving
subjects)
- Wait
for the still spot…observe the subject in the LCD and time your exposures
for those instants when the wind dies, the passing cars are at the
greatest distance, the tripod has stopped vibrating from the last time you
focused, God is in his heaven and everything is right with the world…and,
of course, when the subject is still…and (positive attitude) doing
something interesting.
- Find
stable ground. If possible, avoid shooting from boardwalks, tree stands,
raised platforms, etc. You want your feet, and the tripod, on solid
ground. Asphalt and other paving materials transmit vibrations very well.
Move to the verge. Better yet, move at least 40-50 feet from any roadway
with passing traffic. Where appropriate, use the spikes on your tripod
legs. Keep well back from surf at the beach. You feel the force of the
ocean with every breaker…and your tripod feels it too.
- In a
worst case, especially in a high wind, try touching the scope lightly to
dampen vibrations (and take a lot
of images!)
- In the
worst worst case, weight the scope and tripod: carry plastic bags with
handles (the kind you take frozen stuff from the grocery home in) and a
short length of rope. Fill the bags with whatever is handy and hang them
on either side of the scope/tripod with the rope passing over the balance
point of the scope above the tripod head. And take a lot of images.
Attitude:
Don’t give up!
Don’t give up if your first few experiences with the DC4
don’t live up to your expectations. Expect success, but be reasonable in your
definition of success, and reasonable in your assessment of the effort and time
it will take. The DC4 is capable of capturing the kind of images that will
satisfy you…frame-filling, sharply detailed, with accurate and vivid colors…the
kind of images you have always dreamed of capturing.
Visit my gallery.
Over time, you will accumulate a set of images to equal or
surpass what I have there. It doesn’t get any easier than the DC4 makes it.
Believe it. Work at it. It will happen!
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